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If your dog needs a bath and a groom, you should book him an appointment at the neighborhood dog grooming salon. But what if you wish to save some money and try the job yourself at home?
It’s relatively simple to groom your puppy at home, but it’s essential to have common knowledge of best practices for dog bathing and grooming. This will help you obtain a good result and keep your puppy comfortable and safe while he’s being groomed.
So, ensure you give this guide a read before reaching for the scissors!
Grooming Your Dog
Excellent grooming will help your pup feel and look his best. Regular grooming sessions additionally allow you to check your dog’s teeth, nails, coat, ears, and eyes for symptoms of issues. How often you should groom your dog depends on his type of coat, breed, and size.
Why Groom Your Dog?
Combing and Brushing your dog’s hair is an essential part of overall dog care. Brushing helps maintain your puppy’s coat in good condition by getting rid of loose hair and preventing hair knots. Brushing also helps distribute healthy natural skin oils over the fur shaft, helping dirt slide off the fur and developing a shiny coat; This can also help decrease the need to bath and hence decrease the frequency of bathing.
Grooming and brushing are tasks that help to bolster the positive relationship between dogs and their parents. Brushing must be a comfortable and pleasant activity for puppies and parents.
How Often to Groom Your Dog
How often to groom and brush your puppy will depend on each particular dog. Dogs tend to vary in their need for brushing because of their hair length, type, and recent activities.
Dogs with short fur usually need less grooming and brushing than dogs with long and medium hair, as these longer hairs can quickly get mats, tangles, and debris.
Some short-haired dogs might not require traditional ‘brushing .’ Parents might instead want to try a soft brushing tool for these dogs to eliminate loose hair, occasionally carefully.
Dogs ought to be brushed ‘as needed.’ Parents should check the condition of their pet’s coat, looking for any mats, tangles, or dullness that indicates they may need a brush. Grooming can last from some minutes to many hours, depending on your type of pup.
As a general guide:
- Short-coated dogs (e.g., Weimaraner) can usually be brushed once every couple of weeks to eliminate loose fur. Dogs with short hair can still shed hair at times, so smoothly brushing them can help to remove loose hair.
- Dense and short-haired dogs (e.g., German Shepherd) You can usually brush them once a week or fortnightly.
- Long-coated dogs (e.g., Maltese) can usually be brushed once a week to remove tangles and prevent mats.
- Puppies. Parents must take time to slowly train their pups to feel relaxed about being brushed and handled on various parts of their body; This serves to facilitate grooming and also helps to reduce your dog’s stress during vet visits.
Not brushing your puppy as often as needed can have an impact on their health. Tangles and Mats can be moisture trapped below a tangled coat, and lack of airflow can predispose to skin infection and irritation. Grooming is consequently a preventative process.
If your pet has a lot of matting, you might need to take him to your veterinarian that can carefully remove the tight mats as they can be hard to remove without professional clippers. Your veterinarian can also check the condition of the skin underneath and recommend if any remedies are required.
Training Your Dog to Enjoy Grooming
Train your dog to be happy with handling in general by brushing and patting various parts of their body. Reward and praise them for being relaxed.
Go gradually, brushing them on the chest area, sides, shoulders, and back, slowly toward other parts of their body such as each leg. Once they’re content with this, try quickly lifting a paw, one by one. Over time, you can prolong this to smoothly brushing the nails, footpads, and other parts such as under the chin and ear flaps.
Continue to reward and praise (with tasty dog food ) when they allow general handling; This will make your pet less likely to respond when you touch them in these areas while brushing.
Once they’re comfortable with general handling on various parts of their body, you can gradually introduce them to a brush. Link the ‘brush’ with positive things (delicious dog treats) and practice reward-based training. For example, if your pet stays comfortable and calm when patting them and holding the brush next to them (without brushing yet), then praise them with treats. By doing this, your dog will connect ‘the brush’ with something enjoyable, and this will help support the process.
Once your puppy is used to having the brush next to them and when your pup is comfortable, try brushing extremely lightly and carefully with just a couple of strokes on the chest area. If they enable this and are calm, then reward them with some delicious treats. Over time you can slowly increase the length of time you brush your puppy and extend touching to other areas of their body. Always brush in the direction of the hair growth.
Once your pooch is comfortable with brush strokes in the direction of the fur growth, you can do the exceptional brush stroke opposite fur growth; This will enable you to do a quick examination of the skin and check for any fleas and ticks.
Ensure the brushing experience is always soothing and comfortable for your pup. If there are mats, tangles, or knots, you may require to have these correctly trimmed off rather than brushed to avoid any pulling or jerking movements that can cause discomfort and pain.
If your dog appears uncomfortable or gets upset, stop brushing and continue on another day, starting on a body part that your pet is comfortable with. Then, continue to reward for calm behavior and constantly build up from there.
Observe your pup’s responses to brushing, and if your dog looks uncomfortable, you should examine the kind of brush you’re using to ensure it is not causing any physical damage and is soft enough. Also, decrease the pressure being applied. Note that brushing may also tickle in some areas, which could cause your puppy to move, so you must try several brushing techniques until your pup is comfortable. Your vet can guide you about suitable combs and brushes.
Keeping grooming sessions short is most helpful, so your dog doesn’t get overwhelmed (unless your pup likes the process). Don’t forget to reward your dog and offer them tasty treats during the grooming session and when finished on an excellent note; This will favorably reinforce the process and help make it an enjoyable experience.
Before you begin grooming your puppy, ensure you have all the tools for the work set out in front of you.
HERE ARE THE TOOLS YOU’LL NEED:
A brush or comb
A top-quality comb or brush is a necessity. Metal-pinned brushes are an excellent pick for dogs with long hair. If your canine has short hair, a brush with rubber teeth can function well.
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Sharp, professional-grade scissors are the most effective option for grooming your pup. They will cut hair easily without pulling or snagging.
Pick a reliable and well-made pair of electric clippers. Pet clippers are more accessible and safer to use than clippers produced for humans.
Use a top-quality shampoo that’s designed for dogs and free from harsh chemicals. Diluting the shampoo with water will make it much simpler to wash out later.
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Grooming Your Dog with Clippers
Begin by using clippers to cut your dog’s fur. They’re safer than scissors and will finish the task a lot faster. Just ensure that your clippers are kept sharp so they will not pull and catch on your puppy’s hair.
Many clippers come with guards that you can use to cut the fur to different lengths. If you’re unsure which size guard to use, begin with the largest and work your way to the smallest.
First, remove any very matted or tangled areas you stumbled upon when brushing your pooch. Remember that severe matting can be extremely near the skin, making it hard to eliminate. Often an infection can happen on the skin in these places.
If you see infection, redness, or swelling symptoms, it’s best to see your veterinarian before grooming the area.
Go slow when working with the clippers, and work your way down your canine’s body towards the hair growth. If possible, ask somebody to help hold your dog in position while you cut his hair.
Another point to remember is that clippers can get hot with prolonged use, so ensure to check the temperature of the blade and take plenty of breaks.
Grooming Your Dog with Scissors
Scissors are excellent for touching up and cutting hair around your dog’s ears, face, and legs. Use just the tips of the scissors to cut these areas so that you can pull them away quickly if your canine makes any unexpected movements.
Hold your pup’s ears down when trimming around them to keep them far from the blades of the scissors. It’s essential to have another person to help hold your canine down when working with scissors to groom him, reducing the risk of accidents.
Along with brushing, some puppies may require their hair trimmed from time to time. Your vet can advise you on cutting your dog’s hair safely, or you may like to organize for a professional groomer to help.
Common body parts that may need regular hair trimming for some dogs include:
- Hair near the lower jaw and chin trapping food or to help prevent chin and lip fold infections.
- Areas where debris (burrs, grass seeds) are caught in hair.
- Around the eye area, if the hair causes irritation or is starting to obscure vision.
- Areas where there are coat tangles and mats.
- Hair growing nearby the anus is trapping feces.
- Ask your vet for recommendations.
- You must use Blunt-nosed safety scissors.
Never point scissors in the direction of the pet; special care must be taken if cutting any hair near the eyes to avoid contacting the eyes.
Make sure to reward your dog with treats or give him plenty of praise for calm behavior, so he associates hair trimming with good things.
Brushing Your Dog
Regular brushing will remove loose fur and dirt that makes a coat dull-looking. It likewise prevents the occurrence of tangles and mats that can cause skin infection.
Brushing also distributes the natural skin oils through all hairs, thus maintaining the coat healthy and beautiful. You need to use a particular brush according to the variety of fur your dog has to prevent injuries to the skin.
Short-haired breeds like Boston Terriers can be brushed once a week or less, usually with a rubber glove or curry brush. Double-coated dogs like Husky or German Shepherd should be brushed once a week with a slicker brush and through the shedding season once a day.
Long hair can quickly become matted, and dogs like Maltese need to be groomed with a wire pin brush twice a week. Curly breeds like Poodles can also develop tangles and require to be brushed twice a week to maintain those curls under control.
Most dogs dislike being brushed, so it is necessary to start young and train a puppy that brushing can be a pleasant activity.
Clip the dog’s nails
Nails should be kept short for the feet to be healthy. Long nails hinder the dog’s walk, making walking uncomfortable or painful. They can also break quickly; This usually occurs at the base of the nail, where nerves and blood vessels are located, and precipitates a visit to the vet. If you hear the nails clicking on the floor, they’re too long; they need to be cut.
To cut your dog’s nails, use a specially created clipper. Most have safety guards to prevent you from trimming the nails too short. You must cut just the end before the “quick” blood vessel inside the nail. Trim just the hook-like part of the nail that turns down.
Several dogs dislike having their nails cut. You can make it a painless operation by getting your dog used to having his feet touched in puppyhood. Start cutting gently, a nail or two each time, and your pup will discover that you’re not going to hurt him.
If you unintentionally cut the quick, stop the bleeding with some styptic powder. If you find it difficult to clip your dog’s nails, take him to a groomer or veterinarian.
Clean your dog’s ears
It’s common for a clean ear to have some wax in it, yet there shouldn’t be any particular odor. To clean your canine’s ears, use some ear cleaning solution (purchased from a pet supply store) to a cotton round. Don’t use too much, or it will drip into the ear while cleaning. Clean dirt and wax away from the inside ear; however, do not rub intensely, as this could cause sores. Don’t push too far into the ear, either.
If your canine has drop ears like a Bloodhound, wipe the inside of the ear flag as dirt accumulates there. The groomers’ rule of thumb is to wipe only what you can see.
- Bring ear cleaning solution up to body temperature before placing it in the dog’s ears. Put it in a body-temperature water bath, precisely as you would with a baby bottle.
- When you’re done cleaning the ear with a wet cloth or cotton ball, carefully dry it out with a dry one.
- Reward your dog! The ears are a sensitive area of the body, and he may require some encouragement.
Clear the dog’s eyes
White-haired dogs or those with big eyes that water a lot (Chihuahua, Pomeranians, Pugs, etc.) may require more maintenance in this part than others. Depending on your particular dog, this step might be an easy matter of wiping or removing eye debris away from the corners of the eyes. White-haired or long-haired breeds may require particular care to ensure that all gunk is out of the hair, as they may have tear stains. You can get products created for removing “tear stains” from a white coat at a pet supply shop.
- A healthy eye must be clear and must not show any symptoms of unusual discharge or irritation.
- Don’t attempt to cut hair away from the eyes yourself, as you may hurt your dog. Ask your groomer or veterinarian to do it for you.
Brush the dog’s teeth
Brush your dog’s teeth regularly with particular toothpaste and toothbrushes designed for dogs. If your canine balks at having his teeth cleaned, get him used to it by brushing his gums and teeth with your finger. Then place a little of the toothpaste on your finger and let him lick and sniff it; do the same with the toothbrush.
It’s essential to provide chew toys that will help clean his teeth. As your dog ages, he may have a buildup of tartar that needs particular cleaning by a vet.
Anal sacs are positioned on each side of your dog’s anus; they are glands that exude scent when your pet has a bowel movement. If you see your canine scooting along on his rear or scratching or licking his anus, he might have impacted anal sacs. Ask your vet how to treat an anal sac issue.
Tips for Grooming a Nervous Dog
Many dogs can become very nervous when it’s time for a trim. Brushing can be stressful– even uncomfortable if hair gets pulled– so it’s no surprise that some dogs respond badly to the whole activity.
There are several products out there to calm your canine’s nerves through a grooming session.
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If your pooch becomes nervous when you’re brushing him, you should have some treats to hand to reward him for calm behavior. It can also be helpful to reward your canine and speak to him in a reassuring and gentle tone as you groom him.
Dogs usually become nervous in unknown situations, so the most excellent way to make sure your puppy stays calm is to establish a regular grooming schedule as early on in his life as possible.
Grooming Your Puppy
Grooming a puppy yourself can look like an overwhelming task, and it can be a bit challenging. However, it also gives a chance to bond with your dog and establishes excellent behaviors for your puppy.
Regular grooming not only keeps your dog smelling and looking clean, but it is also essential for the discovery of possible medical issues.
If you choose not to use a professional groomer’s services for your dog, you can use techniques in the house to make the process more enjoyable and easy for both of you.
Do puppies need grooming?
All pups need some degree of grooming, and you should check all puppies regularly to make sure they are healthy and clean. Grooming entails taking care of your dog’s appearance and ensuring they are clean — an important task, thinking how mischievous puppies can be! Verifying if your pup needs grooming regularly involves making sure your puppy’s nose, eyes, and ears are clean, that their paws are clean, and that their hair is not dirty and matted.
How often should puppies be groomed?
How usually your puppy requires to be groomed depends on what type of breed they are. Pups with long coats should be groomed regularly than pups with short coats because their hair matts more easily and gets dirtier earlier. Puppies with long ears, such as Bloodhound, may require more attention to their ears; if any dirt is left there, it might lead to an ear infection. Remember not to clean your puppy’s ears yourself; however, as they are very fragile, they will need the attention of a groomer or vet.
How old does a puppy have to be to be groomed?
It is excellent to establish regular puppy grooming schedules when your dog is still young and able to learn new behavior. Their size also makes them simpler to control at this phase, so it’s an excellent approach to get them used to groom and bathe now. Imagine chasing a fully-grown wet dog around your home, attempting to escape a bath!
How do you groom puppies with long hair?
Longer hair needs daily care to prevent tangles. Start with a comb to untangle matted hair, taking particular attention around the legs, backside, and tail. Comb and Brush the hair forward, then backward – this will highlight the hair’s natural shine.
If you have a long-haired puppy, consider taking them to professional groomers to keep them clean and healthy.
Such groomers normally have a range of services that you can select from, such as bathing your puppy, cutting their hair, checking their ears and eyes to make sure they are clean, cleaning their paws, and examining their nose to ensure it is moist, and not cracked. They likewise check your dog’s underbelly to ensure it is clean. These services might be helpful to ensure your long-haired puppy is in the greatest shape possible.
How to groom a puppy?
Here is a list of usual things to care for when grooming a puppy.
Dogs rarely require their nails trimmed, as they are automatically kept in check by the rubbing caused when your canine walks. But, just to ensure the nails do not damage and bleed, there might be instances where you should either file them or use designated clippers, available from pet stores or your vet. Never use human nail scissors or clippers.
You will require to prepare your dog for the nail cutting process. It takes some time for your canine to adapt to this, but beginning young is an excellent idea. Clipping your pup’s nails also ensures that no grass or dirt gets stuck in them, which can help maintain your dog’s paws free of infection.
Look at your puppy’s nails before you trim, so notice where the ‘quick’ end– this is the sensitive nerve of the nail. You should avoid cutting the quick as this can be uncomfortable and, if nicked, will bleed. If this occurs, don’t panic – apply pressure with cotton wool, and it must soon stop.
Only clip dog nails that need doing, and don’t forget the dewclaw by your dog’s wrist. If you don’t feel fine trimming your dog’s claws, your vet will enjoy doing it for you, and if you see a missing, ripped, or torn claw, ask your vet as these may need medical attention.
It is essential to brush your puppy’s hair if it gets tangled, particularly if you have a long-haired dog. Not brushing his fur can lead to the fur matting and becoming tangled; This can usually cause him pain, particularly when dirt clumps form and it becomes tougher to untangle the hair. There are designated dog brushes and combs available on the market. Pick the one that suits the kind of coat your pet has and try to brush their hair a minimum once in two days; This will help remove loose hair and reduce shedding.
Most pups (and adult dogs) don’t require bathing, but it might become necessary if your puppy rolls in mud or something fairly dirty! When bathing your dog, pick the special shampoo designed for them. Do not use shampoos for humans or adult canines. Check our in-depth guide on puppy shampoos.
Brushing their teeth
It might not appear like puppies need their teeth cleaned as part of the dog grooming process, yet they do. Practicing this process early means getting more used to having their teeth brushed when they grow older. You might have to start small if you’ve never brushed your dog teeth before. Start by getting them used to your fingers in their mouth, then add the toothpaste and the brush. As always, reward and praise will help get there.
There are specially made puppy toothbrushes in the pet store; make sure you use those. There are also particular dog kinds of toothpaste, some of which are meat flavored. You can provide your dog a little bit of this to try before so that they can get used to the feeling. Keep in mind, using human toothpaste can be dangerous for them.
Checking the ears and the eyes
Your puppy’s ears need to be healthy and clean. If the ear is leaking any fluids or smells, take your pup to the veterinarian to look for an infection– don’t try to clean the ear yourself.
Your dog might also have an accumulation of mucus around the corners of his eyes. You can eliminate this by gently dapping the corner of his eyes with a wet cotton ball. Do not let the mucus accumulate too much, as it can infect the eye. If you notice the mucus is collecting too often, take your dog to the vet may indicate something else is wrong.
Bathing Your Dog
Why Bathe Your Dog?
Bathing your dog is an excellent idea for many reasons:
- If your canine is trained to appreciate bathing, the activity will be enjoyable for him, like going for a playing chase in the yard.
- Any positive interaction between your canine and you reinforces the human-animal bond.
- Bathing eliminates odors and dirt from his coat and skin.
- Regular bathing is essential to healing infected or inflamed skin and damaged coats.
- Finally, while not often realized, bathing can have significant health benefits for your family.
How Often to Bathe Your Dog
While dogs do not need daily scrub downs as we do, they do require regular baths– but exactly how common depends on various factors, such as the pet’s conditions and the kind of coat. Your vet can give you recommendations on how much bathing is appropriate for your specific canine.
Right here are some basic guidelines:
- Bathing once a month works for most canines.
- Pups with an oily coat, like Dachshunds, may require bathing as often as once a week.
- Numerous short-haired breeds with smooth coats, such as Dalmatian and Boston Terrier, do just fine with less regular baths. Short-coated Whippet is particular in their hygiene and rarely requires a bath.
- Dogs with water-repellent coats, such as Labrador Retriever and Newfoundland, must be bathed less regularly to maintain their all-natural oils.
- Breeds with thick, double coats– such as Keeshond, Husky, and other Northern dogs– do fine with a lot of extra brushing and fewer baths, which remove dead, loose hair and helps distribute natural oils that maintain your pup’s coat and skin healthy.
Indeed, if your pooch likes to swimming, or lives in the country and does a lot of running in who-knows-what, then you should bathe more regularly than if that same dog lived in an apartment indoors.
Avoid bathing more often than really necessary, or you’ll remove your canine’s coat of its natural oils, making it dry and more inclined to mats, dandruff, and frizzies. Some shampoos may irritate or dry the pet’s skin more than others, in which case you need to try another shampoo or bathe less often.
Essentially, the best way to determine when your dog requires a bath is to give him a big sniff. How does he smell to you? Not so great? It’s bath time.
What Type of Shampoo to Use
Regular bathing will generally not dry out the pet’s coat or skin if the proper shampoo is picked. While some shampoos, generally those produced from harsh chemicals, can dry out the coat or skin if used too much, natural shampoos, including natural oils, are risk-free to use whenever needed; many are particularly formulated to encourage regular bathing.
When it comes to selecting a shampoo, you have three general options:
• The first is the usual chemical-based shampoo. These typically include chemicals as their significant ingredients.
They may include but are not limited to:
- Diethanolamine (DEA),
- Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB),
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES),
- Artificial preservatives or fragrances,
- Artificial colors,
- Animal by-products,
- Propylene glycol,
- And detergents.
While none of these is imminently dangerous when utilized as directed, they can cause increased hair loss, skin irritation, inflammation, and cracking.
My overall approach to these chemicals is this: even if their use does not harm your puppies, if there are safer, more natural choices, I choose to use those shampoos instead.
• The second option is the “natural” shampoo. Generally, these include few of the above chemicals ingredients and instead rely on more natural ingredients such as “natural” cleansers, purified water, and organic essences of fragrant oils.
Nonetheless, I have seen various “natural” shampoos that still add some chemicals, such as sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate. Unfortunately, the word “natural” does not truly have a legal definition.
While many people consider a natural product entirely devoid of chemicals and by-products, no legal standard mandates this. Consequently, you must read the label of any product to know precisely what’s in it.
Likewise, be aware of vague terms such as “natural cleansers” and “natural oils” unless the product clearly states what these terms mean.
• The last option is the true “certified natural” shampoo. This term is a legal designation by the USDA. Products labeled as certified organic should meet strict guidelines.
Generally, ingredients in an organic shampoo must be farmed or raised without using chemical insecticides and fertilizers, and the shampoos must not include artificial chemical components.
Most companies that offer natural shampoos use no artificial fragrances and colors and put natural preservatives in their products.
Finally, some organic shampoos have been available in plastic packaging that includes PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) rather than the potentially more dangerous BPA (bisphenol A). While every vet has his preferred brand of shampoos, I suggest searching for a certified organic shampoo made for frequent use.
In general, organic products are safer for the environment, inexpensive, and formulated to be gentle for your puppy. They can be used frequently with confidence to keep your dog and your family healthy.
How to Prepare for the Bath
Planning for the bath is the following action to take. Whether you’re bathing your canine inside or outdoors, you need to put all your bathing equipment to the desired place in a reachable, clean, and safe area. While you’re organizing everything, do so calmly and quietly not to scare your puppy.
If you’re using the bathroom, placed the shampoo to the side where your free hand will be, while the other hand will be holding onto your pooch. Put the towel on a towel rack, away from the water, and placed the treats in your pocket so you can quickly get them out when wanted.
Other equipment and tools must be within reach of your free hand but away from the water. And don’t forget to put the bath non-slip mat next to the tub, and one in the tub, to prevent your dog and you from sliding and causing injury.
Now it’s time to get your puppy!
Use delicious treats and a motivating voice to call them out into the yard or to the bathroom. Lots of initial introduction to bath-related things in a positive way will make tasks more manageable.
Where to Bathe Your Dog
Parents of small dogs have an advantage– they can simply plop the canine in a laundry tub or sink. But if you can’t place your dog in a sink, get in the shower with him and use a detachable nozzle, or use the bathtub. A portable dog bathtub is also a choice. While some bathtubs are heavy plastic, others can easily be used outside or in the mudroom and are collapsible. Some pet supply stores rent out dog towels and tubs.
Using a garden hose is fine if the weather’s good or the dog’s filthy, but make it an occasional practice. Dogs do not love being cold any more than we do, and many don’t love having a hose shot at them.
Training Your Dog to Enjoy Bath Time
Train your dog or puppy to be pleased with handling in general by stroking and patting various parts of their body. Reward and praise them for allowing you to handle them and being calm.
Go gradually, patting them on the upper parts of their body, along the back, shoulders, and sides, slowly working towards other areas such as each leg. Once they’re comfy with this, try briefly raising a paw, one at a time.
Over time, you can develop this by carefully touching the footpads, nails, and other body parts like ear flaps.
Continue to reward and praise when your canine allows general handling and for calm behavior; This will make your puppy less likely to respond when you touch them in these areas while bathing.
When introducing your canine to bathing, do it gradually and give them lots of delicious dog food treats for being tolerant and calm during the process.
This will help your puppy associate bathing with positive things, helping make the task easier for you and your dog. You need to be calm and talk to them in a positive tone.
This will help your puppy to be more comfortable. After bath time, also ensure to reward your dog with a delicious dog food treat, so the experience ends on a good note.
Begin by introducing your canine to the bath stuff you’re going to use, one thing at a time, such as shampoo containers, hoses, buckets, and also towels—work standing on the non-slip mats and also reward your pup for standing on the mat.
You can train to stand in the bathtub without using any water; this way, your canine can slowly get used to being in the tub. Reward with tasty treats while in the bathtub.
You can also turn on the tap and hose (on low flow) when your canine is nearby to make sure that he can hear and see the running water. Being introduced to bath-related items gradually, calmly, and positively is the most excellent way to teach your puppy.
Before bath time, you can try going for a pleasant stroll, and then, after having a rest when coming back home, you can try bath time. In this process, your canine will probably be a bit weak, having expended some power, and therefore, they’ll be less likely to be active during bath time.
Since your canine has been positively introduced to the tub (if you’re using a bathtub) and bath equipment, you can teach them to have a bath. Keep in mind to be patient. If your dog gets confused, stop and try on another day.
Tips On How to Bathe
Once you’re ready to begin the task, below’s what to do:
- Brush your puppy before a bath. Matted hair holds water and can irritate the skin. Place a cotton ball in each ear to keep water out. It helps prevent ear inflammation and infections.
- Use lukewarm water. Canine skin is different from ours, and hot water can burn puppies more easily. Bathwater should never be hotter than what you’d go for a human baby. Maintain it even cooler for large dogs, which can quickly overheat.
- Speak to your dog in a reassuring and positive tone. Some canines will eventually learn that you’re not hurting them, although others will continue to hide under the dining room table whenever you use a towel.
- Use dog shampoo. It dries their skin less than human shampoo. Work the shampoo into a mild lather and rub it all over your canine’s body, staying careful not to get soap in his eyes.
- Rinse properly. Any soap left in his hair can irritate your pup’s skin once he’s dry. Rinse, rinse, and repeat the rinse.
- Air-dry. Hot air from a human blow dryer may be too hot for their skin. Use a blow-dryer made for dogs; its lower temperatures won’t cause dandruff or itching.
- Reward and praise your dog. Follow up with lots of praise, play, or petting. Many a wet dog wants to discharge his frustration over bath time by playing exuberant tug-of-war with the bath towel when it’s all over.
Drying Your Dog
While puppies will tend to shake off excess water after getting wet intuitively, you will also need to help them dry off with any large absorbent towels. Hereafter, most dogs can be left to air dry naturally.
Stay away from using a human blow dryer as most dogs don’t love air blowing at them and can get too hot.
If hair dryers are inevitable, always take all security precautions. Quickly supervise the dog at all times, avoid the head area and make sure the air is constantly at a comfortable temperature. You must also place the dryer a safe distance away from the puppy.
And if you enjoyed this guide or have any questions for Me, please feel free to leave me a comment below!
I’d love to hear from you!
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